Although in the CIS countries this tree does not grow in natural conditions, but everyone knows about it, because it is impossible not to pay attention to the blossoming sakura. Pink flower petals conquer not only the inhabitants of Japan and China, but also many Europeans, with which the spread of sakura is associated. Today we will find out how to plant sakura, what is this tree, and also talk about caring for the plant.
How does it look
Few know that Sakura is the “sister” of a cherry, namely - fine-cherries. 
Speaking about how the Sakura looks like, it’s worthwhile to submit not a copy of our cherry, but a tall tree with a spreading crown, which on average reaches a height of 8 meters. It has oval-shaped leaves, with teeth on the edges, which are painted in green glossy color (in spring they have a bronze tint). The bark is smooth, covered with fine cracks.
It is interesting that there is a lot of resin in the sakura wood, so the shoots are very flexible.
Delicate pink flowering can also boast of three-lobed almonds and Nedzwiecki apple tree.
When and how to bloom
If you have ever been fond of Japanese folklore, then you might have noticed that sakura blooms profusely during the winter holidays. The tree begins to bloom in January, but flowering does not occur evenly, but from South to North.
At the same time, it is difficult to say when the plant will start blooming in the middle lane, since it depends not only on the weather conditions, but also on the variation. There are species that bloom in late autumn, in winter, in early spring or closer to June.
Let's talk about bloom. Sakura blooms incredibly beautiful pink flowers. On each brush about 7-9 inflorescences are formed, which completely overlap the shoot. As a result, it seems that the tree turns into a huge ball. 
Speaking about how many sakura blooms, it is worth noting that each flower lives no more than 10 days, after which it fades and crumbles. Repeated budding does not occur, so 1.5 weeks is the maximum flowering period.
Breeders were found interesting species that emit huge buds with 45-50 petals. From the side it may seem that the tree was decorated with rosebuds.
Important! The colder in the yard, the longer the tree will bloom.
How to choose seedlings when buying
When choosing a seedling, it is imperative to focus on winter hardy varieties. The whole problem with growing a tree is precisely that it cannot survive our frost. Therefore, preference should be given to the Sakhalin cherry variety, which is perfectly acclimatized.
Next, inspect the upper part and the root system (if the roots are not in the earthy coma). There should be no wounds and dry branches. The root system must be developed, healthy, without blistering and rot.
It is necessary to get a sapling at the end of autumn when the tree already dropped foliage. The height of the same year should be 65-75 cm. However, planting is carried out only in spring (April), otherwise the fragile sapling will die during the winter, not taking on a new place in such a short time. Prior to this, the tree can be placed in the cellar or directly in the living room, planting it in a large pot or bucket. 
Choosing a landing site
To grow sakura in the middle lane is necessary to choose the right place in the garden or on the plot. If you plant a beautiful "as it will", then the tree can wither, even to the point of drying.
So, choose the south-western slope of a small hill and plant a young tree. In case you plant it on the south side, the tree will suffer greatly from temperature changes. But if the place is in a lowland, then get ready for the fact that Sakura dries quickly.
Important! The slope should be gentle, no more than 10˚.
You should also take care that the sunlight does not overlap the buildings, otherwise the tree will begin to stretch and deform strongly, as if it lacks mineral substances.
The soil. Be sure to check the pH of the soil, as the Sakura grows in the soil with a neutral reaction. Deviation should be negligible. Also, make sure that the substrate is well water missed, and lay drainage before planting. Light loamy soil is preferred. 
Step-by-step process of planting seedlings
Now consider in detail the landing of Sakura.
Starting with digging a hole. We will need a hole with a diameter of 45 cm. When digging a hole, separate the upper fertile layer from the lower one. We will not need the lower one, but we will use the upper one for the landing.
Learn more about growing in the middle lane of apple, pear, honeysuckle, grapes, cherries.
We mix in equal proportions humus, compost and the top layer of soil that we got after digging the hole. If the mixture is not enough, then add the purchased land or take the soil of the nearest field.
We lay drainage using pebbles, expanded clay or crushed stone. Layer should be about 10 cm, not less. Next, fill 2/3 of our soil mixture so that there is a mound in the center of the pit.
Immerse the sapling clearly in the center, leveling it (we do not need sakura growing sideways). We pour out the remnants of the mixture, then we tamp and pour. As soon as the ground settles a bit, we’ll get some more. We need to remove the air pocket around the roots so that the tree will stick faster.
Important! It is impossible to deepen the root neck.
After landing, we set up a support and tie up the sakura. Make a ditch around the perimeter, about 10 cm deep, and fill it with water.
This landing is complete. 
Seasonal care features
After the planting stage, sufficient attention should be paid to the fragile tree to meet its needs in time. Let's talk about the formation of the crown and the need for fertilizing.
There are types of cherries that have a shrub form - sand cherries (besseya) and felt.
Watering
We water as the soil dries, but moisture is especially important during the swelling of the buds, as well as at the beginning of flowering and over the next two weeks. Should not be allowed soil dryingthat is extremely bad for the tree.
Did you know? The oldest sakura is 1,800 years old, and its height is 24 meters.
Top dressing
Let's start with the fact that fertilizing must necessarily be, and they should be made during watering.
It is necessary to close up in the near-stem circle not only humus or compost, but also mineral water. Mineral fertilizers require nitrogen and potassium in the tree, which can be applied both individually and as a pair using complex fertilizer. 
If the soil is poor in organic matter, then once a year up to 10 kg of humus / compost and up to 15 g of mineral fertilizers should be applied (meaning the total weight of all elements).
If the substrate has average values, then 5 kg of organic matter and 8 g of "mineral water" will suffice.
Important! Do not use fertilizers that can strongly oxidize the soil.
Pruning
Formation of the crown and removal of dry, sick and frozen branches should be done only before the start of sap flow, in order to avoid the appearance of gum (resin).
In the first years, a sapling should be cut only in case of dry or diseased shoots; the formation at an early stage is not performed.
Important! Cut the place cut garden pitch.
Wintering
Sakura is not adapted to the "real" winter, so it must be prepared exactly with the instructions below. If you are sure that in winter there will be only minimal frosts, then you can at least warm the wood. 
For a good wintering at the end of the summer we introduce potash and phosphate fertilizers. In no case do not use complex options that contain nitrogen, as they will provoke further growth of green mass, and the tree will not have time to lose foliage before frost.
A week before the anticipated first frosts, we wrap the trunk and grafting sites with thick covering material, and the lower part of the skeletal shoots with dense agrofibre.
At the same time it is impossible to use a film or any material that does not allow oxygen to pass through.
Did you know? In many cities in Japan, the first working day and school day coincides with the moment of flowering of sakura, so this culture is often planted near schools.
Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment
Even if you follow all the rules of tree care, it’s not a fact that it will not get sick or will not be occupied by pests, since it is very problematic to recreate ideal conditions for development in the middle lane and many factors do not depend on you. Therefore, further talk about how to deal with the diseases and pests of Sakura.
Let's start with the fungal disease coccomycosis. The disease is also referred to as reddish-brown spot and is quite dangerous for the tree.
Signs: spots, corresponding to the second name, appearing on the leaves at the beginning of summer, appearance of gray color on the back side of the leaf.
Consequences: growth inhibition and reduction of immunity, as well as reduced frost resistance.
Causes: wet warm windy weather, as well as a large number of rotting fallen leaves.
Fight: the use of specialized fungicides, which in several approaches will rid the tree of fungus.
Prevention: off-site cleaning of leaves or burning; digging in early spring; preventive treatment with drugs (if there is a chance of infection). 
Important! Spraying sakura during flowering is prohibited.
Aphid. The famous parasite that will not leave any plant in the garden alone. Aphids are carried by ants and can also move through the air.
A large colony not only violates the integrity of the bark, but also draws a lot of juice, which is especially dangerous for young trees. As a result, growth and development are inhibited, and the wounds on the cortex become an excellent entry point for pathogenic microorganisms. Also wintering becomes problematic. You can eliminate the appearance of aphids, smeared with medical vaseline trunk, or glue double-sided tape. However, if the aphids move through the air, then only insecticide treatment will save you.
This concludes the discussion of an incredibly beautiful tree. After reading the article, you learned how and how long the sakura blooms, what kind of species it is, and how to grow it in the garden. At early times, try to devote more time to the tree in order to notice and fix the problem in time.
