Spring grape grafting

Today we look at how to graft grapes, it is a beautiful plant with sweet berries. But first, let's talk a little about the plant itself.

I must say that the entire annual cycle of grape development is clearly divided into two stages: winter dormancy and vegetation.

What is vegetation?

This is a time period during which the plant begins to develop intensively: starting with the spring awakening and ending with the autumn leaf fall.

Vegetation begins in April and ends in October, it is divided into 5 main phases.
  • sap flow, also called weeping grapes
    It begins in the ground at a depth of 40 cm already at + 8C, when the root system is accepted for active work.
  • shoots grow and buds appear, buds blossom
    During the day, the shoots grow at an intensive pace by 5-10 cm, it is desirable to break off the excess green shoots, leaving only the most fruitful. During this phase, you need to diligently feed the grapes with a good fertilizer.
  • bloom
    The third phase falls almost two weeks. It is worth the flowers to reset the caps, as already at + 16C, they bloom. Attention: in no case do not water the grapes during this period, because this may cause a drop in the temperature of the soil, which will cause the flowers to fall off.
  • berries are gaining nutritional strength and gradually increase
    The phase ends at the time of the final ripening of berries, which falls on the end of July-August, depending on the variety of the bush. At the end of the allotted period, the berries are softened and painted.
  • the crop is ripening, the berries can begin to gather, the leaves begin to fall, the shoots are ripening.
    The fifth phase begins with the final ripening of the berries, and it ends when the plant is in a state of rest. When this happens, the bushes are pruned.

Learn how to propagate the grapes correctly in the spring.

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Why plant grapes?

In fact, because the stalk of any bush can sprout on its own. So why did you need vaccination? This procedure is used in several important cases:

  • When you need to restore a deleted bush after its spring cut.
  • When replacing grape varieties.
  • Some gardeners in the southern regions plant grapes for drought resistance and for increasing fruitfulness.
  • In cold regions, grapes are grafted because the temperature limit for the emergence of root activity of Far Eastern varieties is much lower than that of European bushes. So it is difficult to achieve the optimum temperature of the cold soil without the use of this agronomic technique.
  • The grafted sapling is not susceptible to phylloxera, and in fact the bushes infected with it die in 5 years, having ceased to bear fruit in just 3 years.

Such are the reasons forcing gardeners to mess with grafted seedlings. How much they say about them! And they are capricious, and for vaccination you need a lot of additional knowledge.

Not so bad, dear friends. All we need is strong hands and the ability to follow the instructions below.

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Grape grafting in spring

So, here is a minimal set of knowledge for you: the grafted graft is called graft, it is “planted” on a grape bush, called a stock. If the stock is large enough, then several grafts of any grape variety can be grafted to it.

However, cuttings of different varieties planted on one cous should be close in time to the ripening of the berries and roughly correspond to the force of growth. Most often, they try to inoculate a weak-growing stalk with a strong-growing rootstock in order to increase the productivity of the graft. By the way, the grafted cuttings should be of the same thickness.

Vaccinations may be summer or winter, but we consider the spring option. The whole procedure is carried out in March. The best way is grafting cuttings on the green shoot, of course it's okay if the stock is already woody. Most importantly, the graft and bush to be grafted should be on the same lignification stage.

Before the procedure, the cuttings are stored in the refrigerator, the best temperature for them will be 0 ... + 2C. Note that temperature fluctuations can easily cause increased nutrient consumption in the handle.

Why is this so important? Simply, the success of a vaccination is often determined by the amount of stored nutrients in the vine, so be careful and keep the temperature at the same level.

There are several options for grafting on the green shoots, but the easiest way is grafting

Training:

After the winter, cut the stock "on the reverse growth." It is desirable to leave 2-5 eyes. As soon as the sprout reaches the middle stage of aging, it will be possible to inoculate under a 2-3 leaf. 5 days before the procedure, cut off the antennae and leaves from the very bottom to the site of inoculation, and in a few days start watering the bush, not sparing water. Green grafting is done in the morning before noon.
So what needs to be done?

  • Cut the pruning shears at a distance of 15 cm from the trunk the whole shoot.
  • We are waiting for half an hour, until the abundant appearance of the sap
  • Then, at the end of the stock, a 2 cm cut is made in the center.
  • After that, a graft of a graft that is suitable in diameter is sharpened with a “wedge” from the bottom and inserted into the created incision.
  • Now we properly wrap up the junction of the cut, strapping should not miss the juice!
  • Now a transparent bag with a small hole for ventilation is put on the graft and tied at the bottom.

So, approximately two weeks after a successful vaccination, the graft will begin to grow intensively, but the package is removed only when the shoot grows to at least 5 cm. The binding is removed only a month after the procedure, but it can be loosened a little earlier. Well that's all. Not so complicated procedure of grafting to the escape, is not it? I hope you will succeed. Good luck in your work!

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Watch the video: Field Grafting Grapevines. How Grapes are Grafted to Change Varieties. Wine Education Videos (April 2024).